Wine with legs

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It’s largely an obsolete term nowadays, but there was a time when wines were sometimes referred to as having ‘good legs’. If holding a glass of wine at an angle you’ll note it ‘lining’ the glass when you return it to the vertical. After a while it will start to drip at various places, these are called, rather romantically, the tears, or sometimes the legs.
They relate solely to the alcohol content of the wine are not an indicator of quality. However, firstly, I couldn’t resist the title above – many readers will know that the Spanish word for legs, is ‘piernas’; and, in this case, the wines of Jorge Piernas, do have ‘good legs’ – and they are of exceptional quality!
When I visited Bodegas Jorge Piernas in the sleepy, but now awakening Bullas area, the man himself was in South Africa! Nowadays in Spain the new generation of winemakers, well those with the wherewithal at least, often leave the country of their birth to work various internships in order to gather more experience and to learn new/different techniques.

Read more in this week’s print edition or go to e-paper

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